Nature re-created.
There may be 1001 reasons to persuade us to visit Brasilia, but it is the “New Era Constructions” that inspire the visitor. Many have been to Brasilia, the Brazilian capital, to experience for them selves the sensation of being lifted out from the present and placed in a world of the future. It is there that you will find greatest collection of 20th century vanguard architecture.
Even from the earliest draft plans, Brasilia was never a conventional City. It is said that the architect Lucio Costa, (1902 – 1998) drew up the pilot plan for the urbanisation of Brasilia whilst on board a ship bringing him from New York to Rio de Janeiro, and consequently, the proposed city would incorporate “a touch of the sea”. Another amusing little story recounts that the English architect William Halford, a member of the international team of judges invited to select the plans for Brasilia, on seeing Lucio Costa`s project, refused to extend the plan submission time and stated, “relating to the theory of modern urbanism, this is one of the most important contributions this century”. Milton Braga commented, “Lucio uses the whole history of architecture to create Brasilia, not merely modern architecture”. Here one sees the perspectives of Paris, the immense stretches of grass loved by the English, the American Highways and the purity of Diamantina of the twenties. Lucio wished to create an orderly and efficient working city, but at the same time, a city alive and delightful, a combination of people with beauty.
For the design of the more daring projects, Kubitscheck invited the architect Oscar Niemeyer. Together, Kubitschek, Costa and Niemeyer created Brasilia, the world model for vanguard architecture.
Having seen so many postcards, rarely do cities live up to our tourist expectations, but here, seen through the eyes of the visitor, the unexpected beauty of the monuments and extensive gardens never cease to amaze. To speak of this metropolis is to admire Niemeyer, who constructed in Brasilia, unimaginable columns and designed constructions with the slenderest reinforced concrete, presenting enormous technical challenges for the engineers. He never lost sight of his wish to recreate the soul of the sculptor within him. His taste for sensuous curves is explained by Niemeyer himself ”what enchants me are the free and sensual curves that I see in the mountains of my Country, the sinuous courses of its rivers, the waves of the sea, the curves of a beautiful woman. It is of curves that the Universe is made”.
The Grand buildings of Brasilia, constructed between 1957 and 1962 were his greatest work. Always following the line of the horizon, the buildings have classical bases. However, as the architect and essayist Guilherme Wisnik commented, “these buildings are the mother of experimentation never before seen, incorporating the positive optimism of a Country which is launching itself culturally, with grace and competence, not only in music, like the Bossa Nova, but in architecture”.
The dry air and the clearness of the light, serve to accentuate the sharpness of the profiles of constructions, that in an abstract way, create new landscapes within an area that was previously semi arid. These are powerful justifications for the pride felt by those who became emotionally involved in the realisation of the project, which in its day, was considered utopian.
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short journey through the city is sufficient to appreciate Niemeyer’s diverse genius. But beware, Brasilia is not a place to explore on foot, there are countless wide highways with few pavements and the main tourist attractions are a long way away from the roads. Also, there are never ending stretches of grass. Do not even consider taking a bus, they are extremely rare! The best option is to rent a car and buy a map. Prepare yourselves to become lost until you understand the sign posts. Signs indicate the various sectors, such as; Hotels, Hospitals, Military, Banking, Commercial etc. There are also the Residential areas. It sounds complicated, but it is not. Next decide your itinerary and check the opening times, especially as many of the attractions are Public buildings, including, the Palacio do Congresso Nacional (National Congress Palace), which houses the Federal Senate and the Lower Chamber.
Follow the “sensuous curves” of Niemeyer’s work at the Palacio do Itamaraty, also known as the Palacio dos Arcos. There you will find the richest artistic collection in all of the public buildings, which include the paintings of Candido Portinari and Arcangelo Ianelli, and furniture that belonged to Barao de Rio Branco and Princess Isabel. In the suspended gardens you will find the Victor Brecheret sculpture, and outside the “Meteoro” of Bruno Giorgi which became the building’s symbol. Neimeyer again shows his touch of genius at the Catedral Metropolitana. The sixteen pillars that merge on the top of the Cathedral suggest the crown of thorns placed upon Christ`s head. Inside, the principal nave receives natural light through the stain glass windows painted by Marianne Peretti. The Via Sacra is a work by Di Cavalcanti. The tiles around the Christening Font are by the artist Athos Bulcao. Your eyes turn upward to see the three angels of Alfredo Ceshiatti, suspended by discreet steel wires. They seem to float in the air. Alfredo Ceshiatti also sculptured the four Evangelists, Mark, Mathew, Luke and John, standing in line within the Cathedral. On the left side, dried wax flowers are for sale, which, with their vibrant colours, are much sought after by tourists.
Another of Brasilia’s charms is the Santuario Dom Bosco, a church almost completely of glass, designed by architect Carlos Naves. Within, the stain glass windows of multiple tones of blue which scintillate in the sun light, seem to invite the visitor to drift into a state of meditation. At sunset, or late afternoon, nature provides a true spectacle, a rainbow that melts and tinges the sky with all its colours. According to Lucio Costa, “Brasilia’s sea is the sky”. Looking at Brasilia from the lookout post on the television tower, one realises why Brasilia has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Your itinerary should include the National Theatre, with its façade by Athos Bulcao, the Parque da Cidade, largest in South America, and, among others, the Planalto, with its famous columns, described by Niermeyer as being “light as feathers touching the ground”.
With its self sufficient beauty, Brasilia synthesises the words of that other “giant among architects”, Le Corbusier, who said, “I only live this life, to see”.