The Historical Towns of Minas Gerais.
Gold and Liberty. With these words, we may condense the backdrop to these Minas Gerais towns, which, during the rebellious 18th century, were home to the brilliant, inspiring thoughts of independence from Portugal. Diamantina, Ouro Preto and Tiradentes are the places in which Brazilians remember their historic past, their identity and above all, their dreams (Moacyr Scliar).
Bright as glittering diamonds.
What makes Diamantina, situated 297km north of Belo Horizonte, so special? It is not the fact that in 1999 it was recognised by Unesco as a World Heritage site. Nor, despite the fact that surveys indicate that no Diamantina family is without at least one musician amongst its members, is it for its music. Even the fact that it is the birthplace of both Juscelino Kubitschek and the sensual and influential slave, Chica da Silva, does not provide the answer.
The most startling feature of Diamantina is its iridescent, shimmering luminosity. From early morning, when clouds still hang over the city, until sunset, the magic of reflecting light is everywhere. At different times of the day, the light changes from rose tinted, to gold or bluish, all reflected on the surrounding cliffs and ancient walls of the houses, so provoking the question, “was this town really named after the diamonds discovered in the region, or because the town is itself as a diamond?”
The City boasts more than 400 colonial dwellings and 14 baroque churches and chapels. Among the many attractions there is the Casa do Muxarabie, which has “one way” trellis windows, enabling the residents to observe the passers by without being seen. The Museu do Diamante rises majestically in the Praca da Catedral. Within the rooms of the museum, are exhibited minerals, 17th and 18th century furniture, oratorios, and historic documents relating to diamond extraction. Visit the house where the ex Brazilian President, Juscelino Kubitschek lived, at Rua Sao Francisco 241, today preserved as a museum dedicated to his memory. Inside one may see his first medical report, his library and the simple bedroom furniture, made from wooden boxes. (www.diamantina.com.br).
The baroque churches of Ouro Preto.
It is said that it is only possible to understand Ouro Preto after having visited 17 of its churches and chapels, places of worship that still play an important roll in daily lives of its inhabitants. To enter one of these churches on a sunny day is truly breathtaking. Even those who are well familiar with baroque architecture will be overawed by the splendour of the sun illuminated detail. The splendour of the “golden era” of the 18th century, which transformed the city into one of the richest of the kingdom, is brought to life.
Commencing with the principal church, Nossa Senhora do Pilar, which boasts more than 400 angels and alters adorned with 400 kg.of gold and is considered to be one of the best examples of Mineiro baroque. It is also the church with the second largest quantity of gold in Brazil (the first being Sao Francisco de Assis, in Salvador). The pathway to visit the churches of Ouro Preto leads from Nossa Senhora do Carmo. The person who chose the site for the church new exactly what he was doing; from the many routes leading to the historic centre, the church may be seen framed within the beautiful backdrop of the mountains. Your itinerary should includeNossa Senhora do Rosario dos Pretos, with its circular forms, Sao Francisco de Assis, where works of two of the greatest Mineiro baroque artists, Athayde and Aleijadinho are found, and finally, Nossa Senhora das Merces e da Misericordia. In reality, these churches are “pure gold” for those wishing to understand a little of Brazilian history.
Tiradentes, the city of two moments in time.
The city founders, whether “Bandeirantes” (adventurous explorers) or Portuguese, always chose the most beautiful sites within the whole region to commence construction of the future Mother church and invariably upon a truly majestic spot. From the carefully selected point, the streets, squares and houses radiate outward. So it was in Tiradentes, Minas Gerais, surrounded as it is by the Serra de Sao Jose, thus providing a symbolic natural, greenish blue protecting wall. From the church of the Patron Saint Antonio, radiate small simple houses, huddled one against the other, following the contours of the gently sloping hillsides. A stream of limpid waters supplies the Chafariz de Sao Jose, and the convents and chapels are prime examples of Portuguese baroque. It is here that one may re-encounter all that is representative of the Brazilian colonial period. The secular dwellings, the baroque churches, the public prison, the public watering place and occasionally, carts pulled by donkeys, scraping their hooves over the stone roads. However, something about these first impressions does not quite ring true. Contemporary times have brought a novelty….luxury. To day there is sumptuous bed and breakfast accommodation available, restaurants and refined art galleries, giving a completely new feeling to the old colonial town.
Tiradentes is the regional gastronomic centre for preserved fruits. Everything pops into the “Chico Doceiro’s” copper boiling pots; oranges, guava, papaya, sweet potato, lemon and figs. Here, famous chefs open restaurants in colonial houses and prepare their specialities over wood fired ovens, for example, snails cooked in a simple gooseberry plant sauce.