Past and Present in Paraty.
Paraty, snugly situated between the lushness of the tropical Serra do Mar and the calm waters of Ilha Grande bay, is the starting point for a journey through Brazilian history. In becoming acquainted with Paraty, positioned almost exactly on the border between the Sates of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, you will have a unique opportunity to see one of the richest and best preserved examples of Lusitanian architecture and character in Brazil. The colonial buildings are from the 18th and 19th centuries, and were constructed during three stages of regional development, gold, coffee and sugar. The historical town centre has fourteen streets, all flagged with uneven sized and shaped stones, 128 mansions and five baroque churches. It was declared by Unesco as being one of the most delightfully harmonious 18th century neighbourhoods, so, in 1996, Paraty was declared a Brazilian National Monument. Unlike other Brazilian historical cities, Paraty did not allow tourism to corrupt the atmosphere or destroy the buildings. It is precisely because the restoration and preservation work has been so tastefully completed, keeping faithfully to the original colours, architecture, street signs and even the customs, that tourists continue to be attracted to and visit Paraty. It should be remembered that during the twentieth century, until the 1970`s when the Rio - Santos highway opened, Paraty had passed through a long period of neglect and decay. The opening of the highway was fundamental to the success of the re-birth of Paraty, but now, happily, many of the mansions have been converted into art galleries, museums, hotels and restaurants.
More than a History lesson.
For the thousands of visitors who stroll through the narrow, stone flagged streets of Paraty , it is like being in another period in time. The uneven flag stones are affectionately known as “pe de moleque” literally translated as “young boy’s foot”, a Brazilian iced lolli-pop, because they are so similar in the appearance to the stones. However, Paraty does not intend to survive on history alone. A modern air has been introduced with the creation of shops selling art works, beach wear, plus high class restaurants. It is worth remembering that it was here in Paraty that the oldest cake recipe in Brazil was created, the famous “Manue de Bacia” based upon a Portuguese sweet, but adapted by the creativity of the slaves. Instead of sugar, which they did not possess, the slaves used cane juice. The old traditions of cake baking continue to the present day, and the famous “cocadas”, puddings and other snacks are regularly on sale from hand carts dotted around the town.
There are two points of controversy relating to Paraty. First concerns the founding dates of the town, which some historians affirm was between1540 – 1560, others equally adamantly 1597-1606. The second relates to the different versions and origins of its name. We find reference to Paratii in documents dated 1600, when the Portuguese founded a small town and again at the launching of Amyr Klink`s red sailing boat with which he navigated the freezing Antartic waters. Paraty is famous for its “cachasa”, (cane rum) and the name of a local cachasa “Parati” became immortalised in the “Camisa Listrada” samba by Noel. You will still find local producers, their distilleries tucked away in the woods and perhaps the origins of the name Paraty lie here.
Another explanation defended by some is the Guaianas Indian name for the fish that they caught in drag nets, the “Tainha” (Mullet), which is “pira `ti”. Finally, the Indian name for the protected bay was “Para na iuti”, meaning in “Tupi” “similar to the sea”
Paraty to-day, perhaps recording a certain nostalgia, has become inundated by festivals of music, literature and cinema. Rightly so, for this is the town that was chosen for the filming of mini television series, soap operas and more than sixty films, including Hector Babenco`s “Beijo da Mulher Aranha”, Nelson Pereira dos Santos` “Como era gostoso o meu Frances” and “Quem e bela”, and Bruno Barreto`s “Gabriel Cravo e Canela” starring Sonia Braga and Marcello Mastroiani. It is recounted that Mastroiani fell not only in love with the historic town, but the excellent, locally produced “cachasa”, and ordered supplies to be laid down in his cellar, along side the wine harvest.
Creative Paraty faithfully maintains its traditions, especially the “festa do Divino” in May, with its charitable bazaars, processions, carvings, sculptures, ceramics, carpets and other excellent quality artefacts. Paraty has more art showrooms per square meter than any other town in Brazil.
“Musical Paraty”, is so called, not only because of the melodious sound of its name, but because here you will find music for all tastes. Jazz, Blues and MPB may be heard in the late afternoon on most of the bars. Immersed in Art, Paraty is the perfect setting for the “Grupo Contadores de Estorias”, (a group of story tellers) who perform with their puppets in a tiny theatre. It should be said here, that despite being a puppet show, these are performances for adults. Both the puppets and actors, seemingly so placid, once on stage show themselves to be powerful and unpredictable. The magic of the performances, so sweet yet so strong, is in total harmony with the town.
The beauty of Paraty, with its rows of white houses, splashes of colour on the window ledges and in the doorways, is duplicated by the reflections upon the sea water at high tides which occasionally reach and invade the streets. The narrow streets become canals, giving them a Venetian air. In fact, this is intentional, as the Portuguese, when they planned the town, wanted to take advantage of the tides to wash the streets.
Metaphorically speaking, Paraty has gone through several “high and low tide periods”. The first “high”came during the 18th century, with the “Gold cycle”, when Paraty, whose port was second only to Rio de Janeiro in importance, “drained off” all of the rich minerals found in Minas Gerais, and shipped them to Portugal. With the passing of the gold fever, a replacement came in the 19th century in the form of “coffee fever”. The coffee producers sent their sacks of coffee beans to France and England through Paraty port.
Then at the end of the 19th century, with the building of the Rio de Janeiro – Sao Paulo railway, Paraty was sidelined and fell into a long period of decline and neglect. The high tides of success stagnated for almost 100 years. The population of Paraty plunged from 16000 to a mere 600 inhabitants and Paraty became crystallised in time.
To-day, a new “golden” period prevails, the Phoenix has arisen from the ashes, in the form of Prince Dom Joaozinho, who lives in the mansion that his Father, Don Joao de Orleans e Braganca, purchased in 1962, situated in Rua da Fresca. In addition, Paraty has the regal beaches of Lula, do Meio, Cachadaco and Cepilho. On returning from a visit to any one of the 65 islets and waterfalls in Paraty bay, it is “a must” to arrive back before sunset, in time to admire the town’s sun kissed reflection in the serene waters of the bay.
Its name may be written in many forms, but this golden town, fills the soul, and has kept of its best to share with all of us.