The city that teaches us history.
On visiting Santos, we journey back in time. This region tells us stories that reveal the very soul of some of Brazil`s great figures and personalities. For many immigrants, from Italy, Spain, Portugal and Japan, the City of Santos was their first sight of the country in which they had chosen to live.
I imagine that everybody has at some time or another asked the question; “if I were able to travel back in time, where and when would I chose to visit?” To travel in time, all you have to do is let your imagination take flight. My response to the question would be immediate; Santos, at the beginning of the twentieth century, and there is good reason for this. I have just returned from this beautiful coastal city, and having strolled around the historic centre, I have learned a little more of its history. I was enchanted, not least because I was given the chance move back into the past, without needing to use my imagination. The well preserved historical buildings and tourist points enable us to follow in the footsteps of the inhabitants of yester year. It is not a novelty here to see the past parade it’s latest fashions before us, for the historical centre, not surprisingly, was chosen by TV Globo for the filming of the soap opera “Um So Coracao” (only one heart) and the “Juscelino Kubscheck” mini series. Perhaps this is itself, one of the charms of Santos.
This is a beautiful, magical city. At first glance, from the high point at Serra do Mar, one could say that Santos is just another pleasant coastal locality, but a closer inspection reveals how much more there is to Santos. It is a simple city, uncomplicated, the traffic flows without the horrendous metropolitan congestion of larger cities and the quality of life in Santos is among the highest in the country. The city has numerous museums, art galleries, high class shops and excellent restaurants. At night the historical centre becomes alive with cafes and bars; the pavements turn into a sea of small tables and chairs and live music fills the air.
Returning to the past.
The most recent attraction in this magical city starts at the Valongo railway station in the historical centre. It might appear to have been taken from a scene from Harry Potter, but with a difference. The journey back in time is taken aboard a 1920`s tram car, which takes you through the streets of imposing buildings that are the hall mark of early twentieth century architecture. Thanks to the vast quantities of coffee exported through Santos, its port expanded. Following our historical and cultural journey, we visit the spot where the City was founded, including the Outeiro de Santa, then the Sentuario de Santo Antonio do Valongo and the Palacio Jose Bonifacio, the headquarters of the local government. The visit lasts just 15minutes, but the time covered is a century.
The most revealing impressions however, are gained when we stroll unhurriedly through the narrow streets of the historic centre. We may start our journey in the morning, when the sun has melted the early morning mist. We are surrounded by the delicious smell of freshly ground coffee beans, which entices us to visit the Bolsa Official de Café situated in the 15 de Novembro. The exuberant architecture of this edifice, dated 1922, clearly demonstrates the power of Santos at that time. Now it houses the Museu de Café and other short term exhibitions. Inside, in what was the bidding room, we may admire three painted panels by Benedicto Calixto, showing Santos in 1545, 1822 and 1922. The museum is the perfect place to sit, relax, with all the time in the world and enjoy a café espresso, and reflect that it was here that amidst the frantic activity of the coffee exchange, Brazil`s economic fortunes were decided.
To walk through the historic centre is to steep yourself in the past centuries, where the history of the city merges with its famous figures. In the Panthenon dos Andrades, we feel the energy of Jose Bonifacio de Andrade e Silva, the Patriarch of Independence and his brothers, Antonio Carlos, Martim Francisco and Father Patricio Manuel. In the Casa da Camara e Cadeia, we sense the freedom of Patricia Galvao, whose nickname was Pagu. According to historian Lucia M. Teixeira Furlani, “In identifying with the dreams and ideas of Patricia Galvao we are able to comprehend better those times and her life within that period. She fought for and defended the liberation of social minorities, for the removal of prejudice and the creation of Brazilian culture”. She was a woman who beliefs were well ahead of the times.
Our gentle stroll continues now in the direction of Monte Serrrat and the Museu de Arte Sacra. We may pop into small bars and coffee shops, although some of them are not so small, like the Café Paulista 1911 and the Carioca, famous for the best “pastel” in Santos. The deep fried “pasties” are prepared in front of you and the crunchy casings offer a wide choice of tasty fillings. The safe but ancient funicular railway takes you to Santuario de Nossa Senhora de Monte de Serrat, situated on a high hill from where you will have a magnificent view of the whole of Santos City, stretching from the port to the beaches and on to some of the neighbouring towns, including Guaraja, Cubatao, Sao Vicente and Praia Grande. The Museu de Arte Sacra is situated within the Mosteiro de Sao Bento, and there we can admire more than 400 items, including an original collection of more than 100 ritual masks from many countries.
On leaving the old part of the city to visit the beaches, we feel that despite the threats that come with modern life, Santos has not lost sight of the most important issue, the importance of the human touch. The extrovert nature of the people of Santos is surely one of its most charming features.
Returning to the present.
According to the Guinness Book of Records, the Santos coastline has the largest urban gardens in the World, running the length of its shores. A total of 5.5km, connects the beaches from Jose Menino to Ponta da Praia. The Arstrides Bastos Machado Gardens, better known as Jardim de Santos, were laid out in neo classic style and contain 1300 flower beds with more than 100 species of plants. A team of forty caring gardeners keep the beds colourful with Red Biris, Lillies, Daisies, Zinnia, Golden Drops and Iris. Every 300 meters, shady spots are created by the canopy of trees acting as sunshades, mainly Datepalms which come from the Northeast of Brazil, and Imperial Palms brought from Portugal by the Portuguese Royal Family in 1808. As though the beauty of the gardens were not sufficient, it is enhanced by the exuberance of the tropical summer. Take a walk along the tree lined avenues that weave among the patches of grass, try jogging or cycle along the track which borders the gardens. When the heat becomes too much, you may move onto the beaches where the cool sea waters are always good for swimming. In the late afternoon, when the sun is less intense, stroll along to the Praia de Boqueirao, where you will find Casarao Branco, home to the works of the famous Brazilian painter Benedicto Calixto and admire his paintings of Santos at the end of the 19th century. It is rare that an artist manages to capture the authentic feel of urban city views, but Calixto, with technical and artistic skill, creates balance with subtle effect. His works are a true record of things as they were and enable us to imagine life in days gone by. It is almost impossible to think of Santos without imagining the ships moving in and out of Latin America`s largest port and the best vantage point to observe this phenomena is from the Ponta da Praia, where you will find the Museu da Pesca and the Deck do Pescador (the fisher men’s platform). The museum was built in 1908, over the ruins of the Forte Augusto, and the visit is especially enjoyable if you have children accompanying you. Within the ample space of the museum, you will find the skeleton of a Fin Whale, 23meters in length, sharks and giant squid, beautifully preserved by the taxidermists. In one section there is a submarine simulator, where you feel as though you are sitting at the bottom of the deep ocean floor, surrounded by the sounds and images of the sea bed. This is a child’s dream, where the interactive displays create within us a love for our precious, deep water world.
In front of the museum you will find the Fishermen’s Deck, which projecting into the sea, provides the perfect place to observe the immense, ocean going cargo ships.
During the summer period, there is a constant daily to-ing and fro-ing of these gigantic vessels. To see this majestic movement at the end of the day is real festival. Fireworks and water jets sprouting from the tugs pulling cruise ships combine to wish God speed to the departing vessels, sharing the happiness of those on board who are leaving Santos to realise their dreams. It is truly a magical experience and helps us recall the dreams of the thousands of immigrants who, 100 years ago and moving in the opposite direction, were so warmly welcomed.Text and photographs by Silvia and Heitor Reali.